Caviar used to be so abundant in American rivers that bars gave it away for free. Today, a single ounce can cost more than $250. Its high cost is a result of its scarcity. But over the last decade, China has exported more caviar than any other country in the world, flooding the market. So why hasn’t caviar gotten much cheaper? We visited a Michelin-starred restaurant in New York and a small American producer’s processing room to see how the tides are shifting in the industry.
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